The
basic design follows the Raptor 30. Same head, pitch and
cyclic setup.
The Raptor 90
full speed
There are some innovations, notably the
frame construction. Frame layout bears a resemblance to the
Robbe Millennium with its stacked, variable width straight
side plates. Assembly is straightforward although the
instruction manual, identical to the R30, leaves MUCH to be
desired. Especially the first time assembler will have a hard
time making sense out of the pictures on several steps. Now
while the design and engineering concepts are valid, the
actual implementation left much to be desired. The initial
kits and ARFs (called SE version) had serious quality control
problems. Especially the plastic for the tailrotor gears and
the main rotor head block was brittle. Reports of in flight
failures began to show up on the Net and in Newsgroups. TT
finally responded to the barrage of complaints and introduced
the version 2 (V2) in mid July 2001. All kits and ARF Kits
were upgraded and current owners of the SE version can get
the new parts free of charge. The free upgrade includes all 5
tail gears (now white in colour), main rotor head block
(silver paint in hole), two new tail hub setscrews (pointy
tips) and a new Autorotation bearing (has sets of three small
rollers). With these upgrades the R60V2 finally came into
it's own right. The tail gears don't strip as easily or in
flight, the new head block eliminated many vibration issues
and the auto hub doesn't lock up after a few flights.
Yep, this is
what they call a snug fit! About a 1,000 Euro's (£637 or
$990) worth of upgrades.
There was a list of
problems upon introduction of the R60 V1:
1. Main Rotor Head block
drilled off centre causing vibration
2. Main Rotor Head plastic brittle causing failure of head
assembly and destruction of helicopter
3. Plastic A arms and flybar control oval links plastic
brittle breaking the ball link causing loss of control
4. Red tail rotor gears brittle, cracking and stripping in
flight causing loss of tail rotor control
5. Autorotation one-way bearing locking up in flight reducing
autorotation capability
6. Main rotor blades warped and way out of balance causing
vibration, pitchy forward flight and tracking errors
7. Torque tube ends inadequately glued into tube causing loss
of tail drive
8. Clutch to clutch liner clearance excessive causing clutch
shoe failures
9. Ball link balls screws too short causing balls to rip out
of material and loss of control
10. ARF - setscrews inadequately tightened and Loctite was
not used causing loss of tail rotor drive/control
Due to the before mentioned problems, TT have come out with
some improved/changed parts. This is good. What is bad is
that there is no identifying marks on the new parts so until
the supply chain is purged, the old and new parts are
intermixed.
Here is a list
of changed parts:
1. Red tail drive gears - new
ones are white
2. Red big drive gear - instead of 4 holes it now has
reinforced two holes
3. Spindle - Is now 1.5 mm longer so the extra shims are no
longer required. No markings differentiate between long and
short
4. A Arms - Cannot tell the difference except the new ones
only break half the time when installing
5. Oval Links - See above
6. Autorotation one-way bearing - new one has different
bearing (triple sets of small rollers vice one set of large)
7. Head Block - Center hole a little smaller for better
cantering. Silver paint in Jesus bolt hole
8. Remoulded Landing gear - holds canopy centred but still
breaks often. No marks
9. Tail drive Torque tube - Improved glue on the ends, no
markings. Here are a few basic, notable items that apply to
both the Kit
and the ARF: · Most of the 2mmx8mm self threading screws are
too short. They can pull out of their holes.
Use TT part #PV0230 2mmx14mm screws. You may have to shorten
a few to prevent them poking into regions they shouldn't and
drill the holes deeper in a few places.
The elevator arm links (BK0335) unidirectional. The #1 or #2
moulded in the plastic goes
towards the main shaft (towards each other). This is NOT
written in the manual. In any case, the A links are VERY
brittle and will
break at the top. Inspect this! · Speaking of
unidirectional, the TT ball links also go on only one way.
Pushing them on the other way
may cause breakage. It is 'highly' recommended to replace
them with Rocket City links (available via Quick Uk).
The pins in the tail drive shafts / tail gears have a
setscrew. Many ARFs are not Loctited. Loss of tail drive will
result if the pin falls out. Open the tail case and inspect,
Loctite the setscrew. · The 60 uses 5mm main blade bolts and
16mm spacing. Use JRP9700691 - BLADE SPACER WITH BOLTS for
12mm blades and 4mm blade bolts. Bad news is that many 60
blades have 4mm bolts and 14mm roots. Make sure your blades
fit. · The main shaft has a 12mm diameter. There is a good
aftermarket swash plate available via Quick Uk.
Some useful aftermarket upgrades from
Quick Uk and TT original hop-up parts
There is a proper way and an improper way to install the following
parts. If they are installed wrong, they are prone to breakage.
1. Elevator Arm Link & Washout Link: Look closely at both sides of the
part. On one side, you will find a small number moulded in
the part. This number needs to be TOWARDS the ball as you pop it in place
2. Flybar Control Rod: On this part, you will also find a small number. If
it is a "1" it goes AWAY from the ball as you pop it in place. If
it is a "2" it goes TOWARD the ball.
1-1 Upper Frame Assy
Read the OE TT manual and do 1-1-1 and 1-1-2 first.
Loctite the bolts(2)going into the metal frame spacers(6). - Loctite the nut(8)
to the cross member. - Install some washers on the bolts(1).
1-1-1 Upper Bearing Assy
Ensure the bearing (1) is smooth and lubricated. - Use a tiny drop of CA to
hold the bearing (1) in the case (2).
1-1-2 Pinion Gear Sub Assy
Dig up the clutch from the 5-1-1 bag 'J'. Temporarily install the clutch(6)
onto the fan (5) for better handling. Wrap one layer of electrical tape around
the clutch. Use 20 min epoxy UHU Endfest or thick CA to glue the liner (12)
into the clutch bell (13). Slide the clutch (6) with the tape into the clutch
bell (13) to set the proper clutch/liner gap. Let dry overnight and then use
sandpaper to smooth out the liner joint gap. After the liner is installed
in the clutch, balance the assy. - Make sure the bearings(1,4,5) are smooth
and lubricated. - Loctite the two setscrews(2) in the hex start adapter(8.
Make sure one engages the flat spot on the shaft.
1-1-3 Pitch Guide L Sub Assy
- Nothing noteworthy.
1-1-4 Pitch Guide R Sub Assy
- Nothing noteworthy.
1-2 Lower Frame Assy
Again, read the OE TT manual and do steps 1-2-1 thru 1-2-4 first. - All bolts
(2,7,4) going into the metal frame members should be Loctited. - Except the
bolts holding in the lower bearing assy. (14) as these need to be adjusted
later. - Enlarge the holes for the fuel tank grommets (8) in the lower plastic
frame(11) by one mm to prevent fuel foaming. - Note that the engine mount
(9) installs with the large hole on top. It is optional to wait until the
engine/clutch/fan assy is complete and to bolt the engine to the mount first
before installing in the frame. - It is recommended to install washers under
all bolts going into the mainframe to prevent damage to the aluminium and
plastic frames. - The manual also shows a frame spacer(1) above the fuel tank.
This is included in some kits and not in others. Guess it's optional.
Make sure when you mount a .90
Size engine that the TT upgrade frame stiffener #PV0283 is mounted for additional
strength!
If the frame spacer is not
in the kit, look for two bolts and locknuts.
1-2-2 Tail Drive Unit Sub Assy
- Check that the bearings (1,3) are smooth and lubricated. -
The bearings (4,5,6) may wobble on the shaft if the holes are not drilled
in the center. A little wobble is ok but anything bigger calls for new gears.
- The bearings (1) fit tightly on gear (5). Shave off some of the ridges on
the gear and then hand press the bearings on. The bearings (1,3) may fit too
tight in the bearing holders (8,9). This can make the bearings notchy. Check
after joining the bracket (8,9) halves and grind out the holes if necessary.
- If the gear mesh between the gears (4,5) is too tight, shave some plastic
off the shoulder of gear (5). Check that the gear does not interfere with
the brackets (8,9) after adjustment. - Carefully inspect the white drive gears
(5,4,6) for any damage. Do not use the old style red gears as these gears
are somewhat fragile and may strip. Some owners lubricate them with grease
or silicone spray. In any case, replace if the tail blades touch the ground.
- Make very sure that the setscrews (2) to hold the pins (11) in the gears
(4,6) are tight and Loctited. You can install aftermarket roll pins instead
or get some more setscrews and use two of them back to back.
1-2-3 Cooling Fan Casing Sub Assy
Fan shroud extension is not available yet and needs to be produced by yourself.
1-2-4 Fuel Tank Assy
Throw away the included fuel line (1) and use black Hayes or any other alternative
for the clunk line. - Make sure there are actually holes in the fuel nipples
on the tank and the plug (2). - Lube the fuel nipple (2) so it slides easier
into the rubber gasket (3).
A Quick Uk header tank is mounted
to improve fuel flow. It is mounted on the frame stiffener.
1-3 Main Frame Assy
Do step 1-3-1 first; read the OE TT manual.
Install washers under all the bolts (1). - Loctite all bolts going into the
metal frame members. - Loctite the body fitting pins (3).
1-3-1 Rod Guide Collar Sub Assy
- Nothing noteworthy
1-4 Installation Of Servo Frame
Optionally use a tiny drop of CA on the screws (2). - Inspect the entire assy
for loose / missing items.
1-5 Installation Of Pitch Frame
Read the OE TT manual and do steps 1-5-1 thru 1-5-5 first. - Make sure you
install the collars(14,15). Loctite bolts(3,2,4) ensuring no
Loctite contaminates the bearings. - The setscrews in the hex start adapter
are inaccessible after the pitch arm is installed. Look at the pitch arm and
drill a 3mm hole in the side of the arm so an Allen wrench can be inserted
to reach the hex adapter setscrews. Drill approximately in the centre between
the two bearings in the large flat area.
When installing
the elevator control arm subassembly (Step 1-5), temporarily remove the two
screws that hold the rear of the upper BRG subassembly in place and move it
up out of the way.
This is with
the Carbon TT #PV0289 installed; ZERO free play!
1-5-1 Aileron
Lever Sub Assy
For some strange reason TT used screws(1) that are TOO SHORT!
Replace these screws(1) with M2x10 or M2x12 for safety
reasons. This continues throughout the kit so buy a bunch. -
Use a tiny drop of CA on the screws(1). - Check to ensure the
bearings(2) are smooth and lubricated.
1-5-2 Elevator Parallel Lever Sub Assy
Replace the screw(1) with a longer one. - Use a tiny drop of
CA on the screw(1).
1-5-3 Elevator Control Lever Sub Assy
Check to endure bearings (2) are smooth and lubricated. -
Replace the screw (1) with a longer one. - Note there are two
balls on this screw (1). - Use a tiny drop of CA on the screw
(1).
Elevator Arm
Link (BK0335), Washout Link (BK0343) and Flybar Control Rod (BK0344)
There is a proper way
and an improper way to install these parts. If they are installed wrong, they
are prone to breakage. Elevator Arm Link & Washout Link: Look closely
at both sides of the part. On one side, you will find a small number moulded
in the part. This number needs to be TOWARD the ball as you pop it in place.
Flybar Control Rod: On this part, you will also find a small number. If it
is a "1" it goes AWAY from the ball as you pop it in place. If it
is a "2" it goes TOWARD the ball.
1-5-4 Pitch Control Frame Sub Assy
Check to endure bearings (2,3) are smooth and lubricated. - Replace the screw
(1) with a longer one. - Use a tiny drop of CA on the screw (1). - See 1-5
section about drilling the hole to gain access to the hex start adapter set
screws. - Make sure the pitch arm doesn't rub against the raised pitch markings
on the frame. Get rid of the excess plastic if it does.
1-5-5 Elevator Control Arm Sub Assy
WARNING: Look closely at both sides of the part. On one side, you will find
a small number moulded in the part. This number needs to be TOWARD the ball
as you pop it in place. Failure to do it this way may cause the arm (2) to
fracture at the ball end.
TT distributed free replacement arms after many reports of fractures. - The
elevator arms are fragile and under designed for the stresses of a 60 size
heli. It is highly recommended that they be replaced with optional, aftermarket
aluminium arms which include Rocket City ball links. - If you are too cheap
for the 40 Euro's aluminium arms, you can improve the original links.
Cut off the top of the link, pilot drill a small hole and then use 2mm or
2-56 threaded rod to install a short ball link. If you have lots of money,
you can get JR's aluminium, BB raced arms for about 75 Euro's.
1-6 Installation Of Main Shaft
Read the OE TT manual and do step 1-6-3 first. Then step 1-6-1 and step 1-6-2.
- Use oil and 600 sandpaper to polish the top half
of the main shaft (5) so all the components slide easily. Don't polish the
section that fits into the head block. - The main shaft (5) has
three holes. The centre hole is NOT in the centre. The short distance between
outer and centre hole goes downward.
This is important because of the Lock Ring(6). - The Lock Ring(6) is installed
all the way up against the bottom of the top main shaft bearing. The ring
has TWO socket screws (2) which engage in the two holes in the main shaft
and must be Loctited. If the holes do not line up, check to make sure the
main shaft is installed correctly. - BTW, the main shaft is 12mm. The only
aftermarket swash plate that may fit is from the Imperio and will cost some
serious Euro's. Heed when it says not to over tighten the bolt (4). It will
distort the collar and the one-way bearing will lock up even more often than
normal. You can replace the fully threaded bolt (4) with a better quality
one for greater strength. A Raptor 30 4mm main blade bolt is the right size.
The main gear picture shows 4 washers under the auto clutch bolts. They are
not included and are not shown in step 1-6-3. - After the whole mess is installed,
adjust the gear mesh by moving the lower bearing assy. Loctite the lower bearing
assy bolts after adjustment is complete.
1-6-1 Wash Out Sub Assy
Check to ensure the bearings(3) are smooth and lubricated. - The self tapping
screws (1) are too short. Replace with M2x10 or M2x12 screws. - The wash out
links (6) are very fragile. Take great care when installing on the balls.
Look closely at both sides of the part. On one side, you will find a small
number moulded in the part. This number needs to be TOWARD the ball as you
pop it in place.
The TT #PV0290, Quick Uk Swash
Plate and upper block #PV0287 mounted.
1-6-2 Swash Plate Sub Assy
Loctite the bolts going into the metal part of the swash plate, use a tiny
bit of CA on the ones going into the plastic arms. - Lube the
swash plate with Teflon oil after installing all the balls. - Again, the bolts
(1,2) are on the short side. A little longer ones would be prudent.
1-6-3 Main Gear Sub Assy
The auto rotation clutch bearing (1) is packed full of grease. This is a no
no. Wash it out with solvent, alcohol or brake cleaner. Anything to get the
grease out. Then use thin Teflon oil or Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
to lube it. - Make sure you have the new upgrade bearing. It is identified
by having sets of three small rollers instead of just big rollers. The new
bearing comes with a new sleeve, don't mix old and new sets. - The heli is
flyable with a locked hub but auto rotations will be a bit harder. - The grey
main gear has a raised edge around the centre on one side. This ridge goes
up. - There is a new red tail drive gear (3) out. It is much beefier around
the hub with reinforced bolt holes. If the hub only has two holes in it, it's
the new one. - Loctite the four bolts (5) going into the hub.
2-1 Rotor Head Assy - TT Corrections:
1. The distance for the two pushrods should be 43mm instead of 42mm.
2. There are four M4 x 3mm set screws furnished instead of two. (No. 9 on
the parts list). The paddles should be locked on both sides
with set screws
3. Following are two typos in the assembly text. On the fourth line from the
end, No. 35 Collars should read No. 15 Collars.
On the last line, No. 34 Bushings should read No. 14. - There have been reports
of head blocks (18) with the main shaft hole drilled 1,5 mm off centre. The
new head blocks fix this. New blocks have silver paint in the Jesus bolt hole.
- Check the spindle (23) to make sure both ends are drilled and tapped the
same depth. If not it may cause an imbalance in the rotor head. - Warning:
The screws (1) holding the balls (32) to the main blade holders are too short
and may pull out in flight. Use longer M2x12 screws. Of course the rest of
the screws(1) going into the flybar control arms (17) and mixing levers (21)
are too short also. More M2x12 needed here. The new spindles(23) are 1 mm
longer than the original ones.
TT includes a supplement page for step 2-1 showing the installation of two
washers(34) on the outside of the old spindle. This will prevent the grip(16)
inner bearings(12) from rubbing on the flap dampeners(25) and causing drag.
There are no external marks to distinguish old (short and need two shim washers)
and new (1-2mm longer and no shims needed) spindles. Check this when replacing
the spindle, installing the shims with the longer spindle will cause rotor
head vibrations.
The flap dampeners(25)and the spindle(23)have to be greased with a non-petroleum
lubricant. Silicone grease or Permatex Tune-Up grease from an automotive store
works well. If the spindle gets stuck in the dampeners, expect heavy vibrations
during flight. - The dampeners (25) are installed with the raised edge outward.
The two flybar control oval links (28) are very fragile and may break when
snapped on to the balls. On this part, you will also find a small number.
If it is a "1" it goes AWAY from the ball as you pop it in place.
If it is a "2" it goes TOWARD the ball. Here an aftermarket aluminium
replacement from Rick's Helicopters is highly recommended.
Check all the bearings(12,8,11) for smoothness and lubrication. - Make sure
the thrust bearing (13) has the bigger hole disk installed towards the centre.
Slide both on the spindle (23) and the one that wiggles more has the bigger
hole.
Grease the thrust bearing(13) with Teflon grease.
Loctite the 4mm bolts(6) ensuring the bearings are not contaminated by the
Loctite.
In the TT addendum it reads: The distance for the two pushrods (33,2) should
be 43mm instead of 42mm.
Ron Lund of Rick's makes a very nice double O ring conversion to replace the
rubber dampeners.
For about 20 Euro's this is a very worthwhile upgrade. Flybar Control Paddle/Seesaw
Assy.
Use a ruler to measure that the flybar (24) is centered. Difference should
be less than 1 mm.
When installing the paddles (30) use the ruler again to ensure both are screwed
on an equal amount. Loctite the small setscrews (9) after the paddles are
aligned exactly straight with the flybar arms (17) and each other.
The mixing levers (21) are installed with the flat side down. Loctite the
bolts (4) holding on the mixing levers (21). Don't forget the small washers
(5) or the mixing levers (21) will bind. Loctite the setscrews(10) in the
flybar control arm (17) and bushing (20). Loctite bolts (3) going into the
seesaw hub (19).
3-1 Tail Assy
TT Correction: The spacing dimensions for the Rod Guides is incorrect. Change
the two 265mm distances to 255mm and change the 130mm distance to 145mm. -
Read the OE TT manual and do step 3-1-1 first. - Just in case: The slots in
the boom (6) go forward, the holes are in the back. - Install the tail gear
box (14) then break out the torque tube (13) and lay it next to the boom.
The torque tube bearing (12) should not be in the exact centre of the boom
to prevent resonant vibrations. A few inches either way are adequate. You
can also install two bearings and this will reduce any possible vibrations.
Pick the spot where you want the bearing (12) and slide it on using Loctite
to fix the bearing to the tube. Let the Loctite cure. The best thing to prevent
vibrations is to mount a 2nd bearing in Tail Boom!
Use a PVC or metal tube to slide the bearing (12) and torque tube (13) into
the boom until it is seated in the tail transmission receptacle (27 next page).
- If a carbon tail control rod will be used, the rod guides (7) need not be
used. If they are used, drill out the holes slightly larger to prevent binding
up the control rod (5).
A aftermarket metal horizontal fin clamp (10) is available. Either one will
crease the thin walled tail boom so DO NOT tighten the clamp (10) yet because
the tail supports attach to it in step 4-3 and the clamp may have to be moved.
Aftermarket carbon horizontal and vertical fins are available as well as carbon
booms.
The drive shaft coupler is glued
in the shaft and can pop out when performing fast pirouettes. Drill a 1,5
mm hole in the marked position
and mount a pin using UHU Epoxy glue.
3-1-1 Tail Transmission Sub
Assy
Check all bearings (1,15,14) for smoothness and lubrication. The red tail
rotor gears (27,28) where a major weak spot in the V1. The new white gears
are much improved. DO NOT USE THE RED GEARS. One blade of grass touching the
tail blades and the red gears will strip out. The setscrew that holds in the
pin (9) must be tight and Loctited. Take the tail apart to check this on ARF
models. Install another set screw behind the first for better security. -
Some owners grease the gears or use silicone spray. Can't hurt and it may
make the gears less noisy. - When threading in the tail pitch control fork
(20) a tiny drop of CA will hold it more securely. - The screw (1) holding
the ball (2) to the pitch slider (22) could also use a bit of that CA. Don't
use a longer screw here or it will go through the slider and catch on the
shaft. - Make sure the tail pitch control slider (20) freely moves along the
shaft(29). Use Teflon oil.
There is the possibility that the tail hub (19) is not symmetric. The centre
hole may be slightly off centre which can cause tail vibrations. Measure from
the edge of the hole to the end of the hub. If the sides are different get
a new hub.
There are two holes in the tail shaft (29) into which the long M3x18 setscrews
(10)from the tail blade holders go. These set screws (10) have a blunt end
and will not seat into the cone shaped shaft holes. File the set screws into
a pointy tip so they will sink into the holes in the shaft (29). The new set
crews are pointy from the factory. - While you're messing with the big set
screws(10) check to make sure they are the same length. Grind down the longer
one if necessary. - Carefully clean the set screws (10) and use a generous
amount of Loctite to hold them in. - Ensure the tail pitch control links (21)
can pivot freely after installing the pins (33). Use a longer M2x12 screw
for attaching the ball (30) to the pitch control lever (24).
Read the last line in the text on the manual page.
4-1 Installation Of Rotor Head
The head block is not made of the worlds most expensive plastic so don't over
tighten the Jesus bolt (3). Snug with no play is good. Use a Raptor 30 main
blade bolt to replace the threaded Jesus bolt (3).
A coating of CA on the main shaft when installing the rotor head may prevent
a little wiggle if the hole is slightly oversized.
Be careful when popping on the oval links to the swash plate balls. The ovals
are very brittle. Of course you installed the good aftermarket aluminium oval
links with rocket city ball links - right?
4-2 Installation Of Landing Skit
Why does TT show the pic of the installation before the assembly? Who knows
but you have to do step 4-2-1 first.
The gear is brittle. Better be able to do smooth landings because everything
else will require a new gear set along with other repair parts. - MinAir Tuff
struts are much better and hold up to much more abuse. Only a few dollars
more they are a recommended upgrade. - If you want to practice auto rotations,
don't install the silicone tubing on the skits. They will catch and tip the
heli over. They are good for flying of off concrete and such.
A Cyberheli lower frame stiffner
#CHITT021 can be mounted for extra strenght. Make sure to use nylon screws
to mount it.
4-2-1 Skid Sub Assy
Just order the MinAir Tuff Struts in white and be done with it. The TT skids
will break soon. Don't forget to glue in the tip and end caps(4) or they will
not be there after the first flight.
4-3 Installation Of Tail Assembly.
Heads Up, step 4-3-1 comes first, no kidding. - When sliding in the boom,
manually turn the main gear until the torque tube slips into it's receptacle
in the frame. Firmly seat the boom all the way to the front until the slots
in the boom engage in the frame. - Pretty aftermarket carbon boom supports
are available. - Sources said the factory location for the boom supports is
optimal and should not be changed.
4-3-1 Tail Support Sub Assy
Carbon boom supports are lighter and prettier.
5-1 Installation Of Engine
The Fan hub is set-up for the std thread of OS, TT and Webra engines. The
YS uses a 8mm threaded crankshaft so you'll have to run a 8mm tap through
the hub and then bolt it on. The holes in the side frame may have to be elongated
a bit to correctly align the YS engine. - With a front intake muffler the
canopy will fit without cutting. You need to loose about 4 inches when using
a centre port muffler. - The Curtis Muscle Pipe will fit. You will have to
move the left boom support brace to the inside of the frame to give clearance
for the pipe. - Use 5 minute epoxy to make a gasket between the engine and
muffler manifolds. The stock TT muffler is not bad and quite useable for .60
engines.
5-1-1 Engine Sub Assy
The plastic fan will most likely be distorted and wobbly. You can try heating
with a heat gun and tweaking a bit but it will still not run true. It really
doesn't affect anything as long as the fan is in balance. - Be careful when
balancing the fan, the threads in the hub may misalign the hub on the balancer
and screw up the balance. - For some reason the fan does not have provisions
for the GV-1 governor magnets. They were there in the Raptor 30 fan. Somebody
forget? The Fan/hub/clutch is the same design as the 30 although a bit bigger.
It still has the same problem of the clutch shoes rubbing on the hub. Relieve
the hub or add a shim to give clearance.
The OS .91 SX-H mounted with
Quick Uk Cooling Fan; a perfect fit
Temporarily bolt the clutch
to the fan and balance it. Mark which holes were used for the bolts (2). -
Use the original washer that comes with the engine under the fan hub (4).
If the washer is too big it will eat into the front engine bearing and cause
lots of drag.
The OE TT70 engine washer is too big. A 7/16 cir clip with the ears ground
off will work great. - Don't use a piston locking tool.
Don't grasp the fan with a towel either. Open the back of the engine and stick
in a toothbrush handle and then tighten the prop nut(3)
with Loctite on it.
5-2 Installation Of Servos
First junk all the TT ball links and replace them with Rocket City links.
- This is where Ball Link pliers really show their worth. Make sure you install
the rubber servo grommets and the brass eyelids into the servos. Failure to
do this will result in drastically reduced lifespan of the avionics components.
- Route the wires carefully to avoid interference with moving parts and cutting
by sharp edges. If using zip ties, don't tighten too much or the servo wires
will be cut. 5-3 Installation Of Servos - Pt.2 - The throttle and pitch servo
arms may interfere with each other at maximum throw. You can't use a big wheel
for the pitch because the throttle servo sits higher in the frame. Check this
carefully at full throws. You can add the two metal plates underneath the
centre servos to make them sit out further. - With the engine throttle arm
turned all the way CLOCKWISE the carburettor is CLOSED. Full power is CCW.
Try to set up the throttle servo travel ATV equal to both sides and at less
than 100%. You want the throttle servo to be faster than the pitch servo so
the engine response doesn't lag the blade pitch. - Look at the elevator control
rods. The rod going from the arm next to the main shaft to the arm on the
pitch arm pivot may hit the frame during certain cyclic/pitch conditions.
Very slightly bent the rod upwards 1mm to give clearance. 5-4 Receiver and
Gyro Istallation. - Don't even think about using two sided tape to mount the
avionics. The vibrations will destroy the equipment in short order. Use at
least 1/2 inch worth of foam rubber.
The battery is very happy underneath the radio tray. The Rx and gyro amp live
on top. - A small enough gyro (GY-401 or 502) will fit on top of the servo
frame in between the pitch arm and the hook for the rubber band. This will
eliminate wires running to the back.
Use only 'gyro approved' sticky tape to mount it.
The additional
Nick rod to reduce free play constructed out of a Vario 2,5 mm ball link.
The same for
the Pitch function. Now the servo is rock steady and will give 100% response
without any delay!
The Vario Push-Pull
tail rudder system
5-5 Body Installation
You can paint the Tupper ware canopy but it's a real pain and takes effort.
It's easier to get some of the aftermarket vinyl decals
that are available in all kinds of colours. - Look at the top of the canopy
and cut some clearance for the swash plate control rods and
start shaft. - Some people cut out the bottom front of the canopy to let air
out in backwards flight and to increase engine cooling in
fwd flight. Your choice.
5-5-1 Body Sub Assy
The canopy clip (4) holds fairly well but may come loose during backwards
flight. You can install a small screw on one side of the
clip so the head of it engages the recess in the landing gear strut. - The
cutting line on the clear canopy is not exact. You will have to
trim several times to line it up with the canopy. 5-6 Main Rotor Blades. -
As you see the blades use M5 bolts and nuts.
To use 4mmx12mm main blades, buy the JR spacer JRP9700691. - Unfortunately
many blades have 14mm roots. So be careful when buying aftermarket blades
to make sure they fit. - Yes, buy aftermarket blades. The stock woodies are
OK for hovering and paint stirring but nothing else. You have to balance them
before use.
V Blades and MS make blades especially for the Raptor 60. Not cheap, but very
good blades. - The std size blades for the Raptor 60 are 660mm. Up to 690mm
can be used but nothing bigger than that. Hovering rpm of 1600 and aerobatic
rpm of 1750 to 1800 are suggested.
