Getting Started in this wonderful hobby, here are some pointers from Grot.

In this section I hope to offer you a more detailed look at starting out in this great hobby of ours. I have been flying r/c models now for almost 20 years and in that time I have both learned and forgotten a great deal. Anyone who knows me would emphasize the forgotten.
Like most of you are now I didn’t have a clue at the beginning, had some cash burning a hole in my pocket and wanted to do something different. Then it hit me I’d always fancied flying.
(Sound familiar?)

Ok so lets look at the differnet types of flying which would suit a beginner.......

Powered flying is perhaps the most common way to start and most flying clubs use this method. The aircraft is either powered by a glow engine (2 or 4 stroke) which operates in a similar fashion to a car deisel engine, An electric motor, or by apetrol engine on larger models.The only real downside of powered flying over the past few years has been the ever increasing noise issue. most engine manufacturers are taking account of this problem now but it has led to a great increase in electric flight technology.

Coming Soon!

The black art ?? Well not at all.
In the early days you were lucky if you could hold these machines in the hover long enough to get a photo. Unless you were very talented. But the technology has improved beyond recognition.With piezo Gyros and flight simulators these days to aid your learning you can realistically learn to fly these machines as quickly as fixed wing models.
This branch of the hobby perhaps gives you the greatest challenge and sense of achievment to learn.

More.......

Without a doubt the EPP foam gliders, (check out phoenix models), are the way to learn gliding. These models are virtually indestructible and will stand up to the worst punishment you can chuck at them. Gliding will teach you far more about aerodynamics and the benefits of various wing sections that you can use. Also meteorology plays a very important part in this exciting branch of our hobby. All you need is a big hill facing into wind a cheap glider and a radio system to become a complete addict (wives beware! Your Sundays will never be the same again).

More.......

The modern model shop is usually well stocked with the latest ready to fly models (or almost), engines and radio equipment, and walking into such a place can cost you dear if you aren’t very careful. This brings me to my first point. Firstly, the shop assistant doesn’t know that you are just taking your early steps towards flying.
TELL HIM / HER.

So where do you start?

My advice to you is to make a decision. Do you intend to just buy and fly your models or are you the creative type who wishes to learn the art of balsa bashing?. Also, and this may not have crossed your mind do you wish to fly powered aircraft or gliders?. Gliders is how I started and it can be very rewarding as well as giving you more time to recover from a less than perfect manoeuvre in the early days of training. Having made this decision you can ask around at clubs shows or even the shops customers (your best bet as you will get unbiased advice). After all, the person you ask will likely as not own the particular model he recommends and be chuffed enough with it to recommend that you buy one. Personally having taught Choddy to fly with one a few years back and I can heartily recommend that you consider the HOBBICO SUPERSTAR 40 (ARTF) as a first model. This model when set up properly will take you from early flights through to basic aerobatics and landings (see the movie showing you the capabilities of this model), giving you the confidence to progress rapidly on to more agile models. This model is ready built and covered just leaving the joining of the wings and a few simple fittings to add. Plus of course the radio and engine. If however you would prefer to have a go at building a kit I would recommend a vintage free flight derivative such as the Ben Buckle Junior 60. It is well worth remembering that although more complex to build this type of model was actually designed to fly on its own before radio ever existed. So lets build a shopping list........................

You will find a dazzling array of engines available to you but as a learner the most important thing is reliability .The last thing you need is to have the wind machine stop. To my mind O.S engines are a must for the early days they are much more expensive than other engines but they will provide years of faultless service and take a great deal of abuse in their stride. Many other engines are also of good quality but to date I have yet to find one that doesn’t need some tuning of the secondary needle valve. A complication that for now you could do without. With engines you get exactly what you pay for. While I’m on this subject learn to start them without an electric starter, not only will this extend the life of your engine but it’s a good string to have to your bow when the starter battery is flat.

I will go into more detail later on this subject but for your first aircraft buy a flexible prop. They will usually be yellow but most shops will sell the ones you need. If you are unable to find one of these stick to a Graupner propeller, as the Master Airscrew and the APC ones eat careless fingers. If you have one you must sand off the sharp edges. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. In addition you will need a rubber finger guard as you will see after a good flying session or two these make for an excellent investment.

The main radio manufacturers are Futaba, JR, Sanwa, Hitec and fleet radio systems. Also there is Multiplex, in my opinion up there with the best of them but as a beginner the price is not for you I suspect until you know for sure that you will continue with the hobby. I personally use futaba and always have, although hitec receivers are compatible and a good deal cheaper so I have used these on cheaper gliders and sports models. All of the above radio manufacturers are roughly equal in terms of quality and reliability so you should consider a compromise between functionality and price. Yet again you must make a decision. What do you want from your radio? Where do you anticipate going within the hobby? Well it is difficult decision to make I know. With gliders, sports, scale, helicopters (now getting more popular). If, as I guess most people do, you anticipate starting with a 4 channel trainer and then one day building up to a scale model once you have been flying for some time. In this case you should look at a mid priced 6-channel set. If gliding is your thing I recommend something with slightly slightly more functionality such as a lower priced computer set as gliders tend to make more use of channel mixing. If you aspire to becoming a helicopter pilot, I suggest you go with fixed wing first to learn the basics. Some people believe that this teaches you bad habits but if you make that extra effort and learn to use the rudder properly instead of aileron elevator only (its easy to get lazy), then you will gain valuable experience before committing £500.00 to the dust bin. Sorry if that sounds a bit harsh but there is no quicker way of being put off a fantastic hobby than spending that sort of money on a ten second flight. So the computer radio again, but this time it is worth spending the £250 it will cost you to buy one of the currently available 8 channel radios. The reason for this is that if you start with a lower cost unit then upgrade twice before finally getting one obviously it will cost twice as much. You could argue that you may not get any further than your first glider but you can always sell a good radio easily and get some of your money back.

Now there’s a thought. Both in the back of the magazines and on various web sites, (including Bumpy Green), you will find second hand models, engines and radios. Most of which are a bargain. Many authors of articles such as this one will say buy new first. But if you take an experienced modeller with you to advise you can save a mint. Typically radio systems are sold either because the seller is new to the hobby and for whatever reason is giving up in which case the whole set-up is for sale or the person wants to upgrade having finished early training. In my experience radio is a good buy second hand. Kits are also a very good buy as nobody has messed with them yet as long as they are complete. Built models are an area where you should be cautious. Look for twisted wings, cracks just behind the wing or around the engine bay/anywhere on the wing. If these problems are not evident and all glue joints look solid then its probably ok. There are two types of modeller one builds and flies the other loves to build does a fantastic job but does not fly. CAUTION! This person may not be using the correct glue for the job .I have bought a model of this type before and believe me a 6ft span P40 built entirely with balsa cement is very dangerous. Especially with a 15cc. Two stroke attached and running at full throttle. Life span of this model is unpredictable to say the least. The model in question disintegrated on the third flight soon after take off. Luckily there was nobody close by. Engines second hand are usually fine but a good tip is to take a look at it and see its condition by eye. Look for chips and stress marks or signs of damage to mountings and the carburettor. Then fit a plug and propeller turn the engine over .You are looking for smoothness and compression also as the piston reaches the top of its stroke listen for escaping air there could be a tiny amount especially on ringed engines but not much. This could be due to the plug leaking, if so change the plug and try again but remember less is best. Next feel for flat spots (lumps) at the top of the stroke this could mean flats on the con rod or ball bearings. If none of these problems are evident the engine is probably a good one.