After what seemed like an age of waiting, I finally managed to get hold of a Ripmax EP Alienator.
Specifications: Wing Span: 40" (1000mm) Weight: 3.1 lb. (1400g) Power: 600 size electric (also suitable for .15 - . 20 size I/C) Radio: 4 channel with 22+Amp ESC, 2 standard & 2 mini servos.
The Alienator is a very unusual ARTF electric powered sport aircraft. With a radical forward swept wing design which is reputed to be 'un-stallable' it has a very futuristic look about it. Available as I/C or electric motor powered, this review will look at the construction of the electric version with some hot options such as a race motor and up to 10 cell flight packs.

The box is huge to accommodate the entire wing and fuselage as one piece. It is constructed of expanded polystyrene foam which is quite brittle and the model should be checked when purchasing as damage was found on the reviewed version caused by something heavy being placed on the box at some point before being purchased. Boxed and ready to assemble. A quick smear of epoxy whilst fixing some of the other components soon had it repaired though. Fuselage and wings are all one piece. ABS nose cone Upon first inspection it seems there are not many bits to go together. This perception soon changes as the many small parts are assembled. . Hardware and wood packs. Assorted body parts. The hardware packs supplied have all the wooden internal structure parts and the wing braces. Also supplied are hinges, clevices, control rods & cut out spinner. The second pack contains the fuselage top covers, tail fins and elevator. Written and pictorial instructions. Supplied decal set. A step by step instruction guide is provided with accompanying pictures of each step and a full sticker set with suitably alien symbols.

To complete this model the following items are required. A 600 size motor & prop, electronic speed controller rated for 20 - 30 Amp & 7 - 8 cells, 7 or 8 cell flight battery pack, 2 standard servos, 2 mini servos & a minimum 4 channel receiver Used in this review: Overlander Typhoon 625 race motor, Jeti 50Amp speed controller, Hitec HSF-04MI receiver, 2 x Futaba 3004 ball-raced servos, 2 Ripmax mini servos & Overlander 3000 NiMh, SCR2-2400 NiCad 8 cell & CP1700 NiCad 10 cell flight packs.

First job as always is to read through the instructions, this is vitally important as there are a few things worth noting along the way which if left could prove a problem. The 2 part instructions are well laid out and pretty much step by step accompanied by pictures. All parts relating to the I/C version are box outlined in the written instructions and numbered pictures are lettered in the visual guide. Care should be taken that when wooden parts are glued with cyanoacrylate. The parts should be allowed to cure fully before fitting in the fuselage as cyno' burns through this foam like boiling water through ice. I tested this on a small off cut of foam and it's not pretty.

Top of the list is the laminated central wing spar. This is glued together with cyno' and when dry, fitted without adhesive into the slot. It is worth noting here any part that protrudes so it can be marked and sanded before being glued into place. Wing spar clamped while gluing and dry fitted into fuselage to be marked for sanding. The central wing spar is an elaborately shaped part and has to be fitted in exactly the right place to line up flush with the fuselage. Shaped to follow the contours of the models underside with cut out slots for the main wing spars to fit through. Before this is glued in place with epoxy resin the aileron servo extensions have to be laid into the slot. This is one reason to read through the instructions first as trying to do this afterwards would be a bit tricky to say the least. Wing spars fitted and epoxied into place. Servos are in position but not secured. Next is the internal framework of the fuselage tray. This is a self jigging assembly and goes together with cyno'. I also used Roket powder from deluxe materials at the joints. Fuselage tray components and the finished assembly waiting to be fitted. The frame is then epoxied into the fuselage. The sides of the frame tended to bow inwards so a little help from some inverted spring clamps came in handy. Using the handles of the clamps to push the sides out to press firmly into the fuselage sides ensuring a good fit. Spring clamps hold the sides for gluing. Front former fitted in place. With the tray secured in the fuselage the front former, another two piece laminated part, is glued together and attached to the front with cyno' and again I used Roket powder to strengthen the joints.

The ailerons are moulded into the wing and marked for cutting as is the rudder, being moulded as part of the tail fin. A fine tooth razor saw or very sharp knife is required to carefully cut these control surfaces free. Ailerons, elevator and rudder with hinges and control horns fitted. Once removed I marked the hinge areas and slotted the control surfaces ready for fitting of the hinges. Epoxy resin is used for this and can be a little tricky to keep out of the hinge line so extra care was taken whilst fitting these. The elevator has a small ply spar fitted along it's length to keep it rigid. Ailerons and elevator hinged, fitted to the model and control horns secured. The control horns are also epoxied into the surfaces, which are pre marked in the correct positions. A small cap was fitted on the reverse side of the control surface to secure the horn legs. The legs were then cut down to flush with the cap and sanded smooth. The control servos were installed next into pre formed slots in the fuselage and wings. This makes the fitting and alignment very easy. Using paper tape on the servos, these are epoxied into the fuselage and wing slots. Aileron servos with extensions added and the rudder and elevator servos fitted. As mentioned earlier, the aileron servos require extension leads to be fitted or as I did the lead was cut and an extension soldered on. The fuselage servo slots are staggered to allow the control rods to pass each other by having the rudder servo about 10mm higher than the elevator servo. This saves having to fit blocks or figure out how to route the control rods. Tail surface servos and control rods. Wing servo and control rod. Rudder and elevator control rod outers are trimmed to length and epoxied into the fuselage slots. Control rod inner's are also trimmed and fitted with threaded brass rods to for the clevices to screw onto. The plastic clevices were too short for the aileron linkage (had I checked first I would have installed the servos the other way round) and replaced with longer metal quick links. Rudder and elevator control linkages and horns. The control surface linkages were adjusted to neutral once the servos were centred by connecting the receiver and battery. Only a little trimming was required at this stage and control throws were adjusted via the transmitter.

The motor chosen for this model was the Overlander Typhoon 625 Race. I have used this type of motor in 2 other models and have enjoyed great success with it. Also anyone I have spoken to who has tried this motor has had nothing bad to say about it. Motor wired for reversible connection. External suppression soldered into place. Wiring for the motor is prepared for the correct length and fitted with dual male gold bullets to match the speed controller used. This allows for reversing of the motor as it is not polarity marked or if the motor should be used in another application requiring reverse for a gearbox or pusher mode. Suppression kit is supplied by Overlander with clear instructions how to fit it correctly. Motor mounted into the ABS nose cone. Motor bolted to the ply former. The ABS nose cone was trimmed to shape and the front motor hole cut out. The front ply former is epoxied into place and this is best done with the motor mounted to ensure it is straight. Quite a bit had to be sanded off the front former to make it fit straight into the nose. Air cooling intake and outlet on the nose cone. The nose cone is secured by four screws into the front fuselage former. This former needed considerable sanding to get the nose cone into the correct place on the fuselage. The front cooling slot was cut out and the rear slot aligns with a cut out in the former and fuselage side. Thrust is not mentioned in the instructions and it will be interesting to see if the default position is optimal. Nose secured and propeller fitted. The DIY spinner that come with the kit was, I admit, not to my liking and having tried it and 2 other spinners, found the prop adapter used was not centring on the motor shaft correctly and caused considerable vibration. The replacement adapter used was too short for a spinner so a polished dome nut was used until a longer, correctly fitting adapter and suitable balanced spinner can be found. This setup when run to full power on 8 cells does not vibrate at all and produces a fair amount of static thrust.

Installing the receiver and speed controller is a bit of a squeeze inside the fuselage. Radio gear squeezed inside the fuselage. Aerial lead in the pre-grooved wing. The Hitec receiver is not particularly large but it was still quite a squeeze to get it into the slot beside the rudder servo. The servo arm had to be moved right around to fit it in place. The Jeti 500 ESC was fitted beside the battery in the front section of the fuselage and secured with Velcro. The front fuselage hatch should be epoxied into place but I have chosen to make it less permanent so as to gain access to the speed controller if required for another model at some point. It is held in place by the nose cone and clear tape along the sides, with glass reinforced tape to secure the rear of the hatch. This is sufficiently strong to hold it in place but easily removable when required. Rear top hatch locking screw point. Angled tail fins give a menacing look. The rear fuselage hatch, which gives access to the battery and receiver, is held in by a ply tab under the tail fin and a screw fixing into the front hatch section. The final pieces to be fitted were the twin angled tail fins either side of the main fin. These were epoxied onto the fuselage and held in place while the glue cured. Stickered up and awaiting clearance for the maiden voyage. Finally the stickers are applied as per diagram or indeed any way you like. I foresee some interesting paint jobs coming out of the imagination of some modellers with it's already futuristic looks.

Awaiting a suitable day to test fly the Alienator proved longer than expected. With the nights now drawing in, various bouts of bad weather (including thick fog on one supposedly promising day) and lack of camera man meant the maiden voyage was delayed but finally the day came. You can see from the pictures the light was changing throughout the flights as the sun went in and out of cloud. A quick trim and the Alienator was soon zipping along in it's element. The first flight pack used was an Overlander 8 cell 1900mAh SCR NiCad pack. After a few minutes of getting used to the model I took it up to the obligatory '2 accidents high' and tested the un-stallable wing ............ It works. Power off and full up elevator (on reduced rates) produced a very docile float with minimal aileron corrections needed but it had no surprises. The tail pipe stickers catching the sun look like jet exhausts. Bringing the model lower and lower and gradually flying past slower and slower it was apparent that this un-stallable plane was indeed going to be much fun at the weekend. With full rates on elevator it can be floated past at a very low speed and landing should present no problems at all. Very stable flight when zooming around at full stick or just floating by on 1/4 throttle. The Alienator can fly like it's on rails, with the elevator rates off it banks over and hauls round like a jet fighter. With the massive rudder movement available it may knife edge very well and once more of the flight envelope has been explored some aerobatic manoeuvres will be investigated. Below the tree line to buzz the camera man and a gentle climb out to finish. With the throttle jammed right forward the Alienator eats up the sky, even on the second pack which was an 8 cell 3000 NiMh pack which discharges more gently than the SCR/SCR2 packs. I can't wait to try it with the 2400 high discharge pack and the 10 cell CP NiCad packs. Landing is very simple, just shut off the power and land it into wind. It may take some getting used to the glide characteristics but once mastered the Alienator is a piece of cake to land safely. I think the smile says it all ~ superb fun.

Very straightforward assembly make this eye catching model a pleasure to build. Good instructions and a well manufactured kit go a long way to making it a top model. Very pleasing to fly, with no quirks or surprises on the first two flights. I would recommend this model to anyone with some experience of both building and flying, but I would offer a caution on choices of glue, paints and handling of the model. Solvent based glues and cyanoacrylate will eat this foam in no time at all. Rough treatment could also lead to severe damage. So far I have only knocked a small piece of one tail tip off ~ a quick rub with a sanding block on the other tip soon had it looking even again. At some point I will be trying out the I/C GP version of this model for some totally ballistic fun.

Article by John Kent of Bumpy Green Model Aerodrome
October 2002

Comment by mike gray on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi, This weekend I tried out my Alienator and it got about 20ft before making contact with the ground with FULL UP ELIVATOR. I am using a Grupner 600 eco motor 8x4 folding prop and 7 x 1250mah cells. The club suggested the C of G is too far forward, but it is only very slightly (1 or 2 mm ) forward of ripmax's setting 95mm forward of main spar. I suspect a motor or battery problem. Can you give me a clue before it gets wrecked on the next attempt? Many thanks. Mike.

Comment by John on 00000000000000. Rating none

Mike My Alienator is powered (as you've read) by a Typhoon motor & 8 cells and this is fine. It fairly flies out of my hand on 10 cells. Even with bad centre of gravity it should have still climbed away. Is the motor wired correctly? Sounds obvious but I have done it myself more than once. What ESC are you using? Does it need to be armed by the swtich on at zero throttle & switch off, switch on at full throttle & switch off then switch on with zero throttle to allow the ESC to sense the throttle range correctly. I always set my control surface throws to be over the stated normal and dial them in using drive rate switches. This gives much more control throw and the use of smaller stick movements keeps it steady. Cold battery packs can give much reduced performance too so check they are not left overnight in a car boot or shed before flying. Let us know as it should fly well even on 7 cells (However I will try it if we get some reasonable weather) John

Comment by mike gray on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi, thanks for your speedy response. as I say the motor is a grupner speed 600 eco, the ESC is a ripmax 22amp with BEC and the flight pack is sanyo 1250mah 7 cell. I checked the voltage from the battery which is 9.3 with NO LOAD. IE not connected to anything. The motor is wired as per red dot ...positive, and was turning an 8x4 folding prop. The guy at the wheel is my instructer and is very profficient. Back to you.

Comment by John on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi Mike I don't want to blame it on being a 7 cell pack until I have tried it for myself but without some hands on it is difficult to advise. Is the cell pack NiCad or NiMh? Any idea what the current being drawn is? Is the prop opening correctly? Would it be possible to fit a fixed prop and try it? If you are anywhere near the home counties I'd offer you to pop along to Bumpy Green and we will take a look. Sorry not to have a 'here is the solution' answer at this point, I will try a 7 cell pack this week and let you know how I get on. John

Comment by mike gray on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi, John once again thanks a bunch for your amazingly fast response. 11PM? On overtime or just love the job so much? Anyway I reckon the motor is the problem It,s a pretty weak one for a start but I chose it to prolong flight time and although it seemed ok at the last attemp (on another plane) I think it must have deteriorated some. I am now re-equiping with a permax 600 and 30amp P-xtra speed controller, 7x 2400mah ni-cads. The 1250,s by the way were also ni-cad. Thanks for the offer to call in also, I would have liked that, but they don't let you stray too far out of Lancashire you know! Don't know why Baaaaa. I will let you know the outcome. Many thanks Mike.

Comment by mike gray on 00000000000000. Rating none

Great news, the permax 600 and 7x2400mah nicads have worked a treat along with a fixed 8x6 prop and well balanced spinner. I am as I speak running the motor in on my kitchen worktop, and without a word of a lie it has and still is running at half throttle for the last 45 mins. At 3/4 throttle it wants to launch itself. Can you believe 45mins. Mike.

Comment by John on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi Mike, that is great news. I had a similar issue with the motor in my Protech Unlimited. It suddenly lazed around like the battery had gone flat but changing packs did nothing to improve it and by the third pack the motor was barely turning. Interesting about the spinner too. I had a devil of a job finding a spinner that didn't rattle the motor at full stick on 8 cells so opted for a dome nut instead. 45 minutes, wow, looks like you could be in for some good flight times. Glad you are sorted as the Alienator is good fun. Keep the nose up & Happy landings from all at Bumpy Green.

Comment by Pete Moseley on 00000000000000. Rating none

My Alienator is just about ready to fly (when the weather gets a touch warmer I think)- it came, however, with just a brief writen instruction sheet ie the photos sheet was missing, so don't know if things like downthrust or sidethrust are refered to on the photos.. I've set mine up as perpendicular to the front face of the ABS nose moulding- which appears to have given a couple of degrees side thrust. Also something I'm not too sure of is using using a non folding prop - on previous planes I've used a gearbox to get the revs down and so been able to use a foulding prop, but as this kit appears to use a motor with no box on it, I'm not happy using a foulding prop at the hi revs a 'raw' un-boxed motor puts out - my foulding props say: max of something like 7000rpm, so the question is: is there any probs landing a plane such as the alienator - which obviously has no undercarriage - with a fixed prop.. provided the motor is switched off on coming in to land, will the prop just move out of the way on touchdown? Also a thought about differential aileron setup- is it required on this plane - obviously if flying inverted then any differential would work against what was achieved when flying right side up - but does it need any to start with while getting used to flying right way up, or is there no noticable adverse yaw from the ailerons? Will this plane do flat spins?

Comment by Mike Gray on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi John again, and Pete. I have just come to the conclusion that there are no directions as to setting the cowling in the instructions and recon I must have had much down thrust on my first flight. And that the slightly heavey frontal touchdown has pushed it backward and upward, evident from the indentations in the cowling infront of the uppermost central retaining screw. IT now flies like a dream with max aileron throws it rolls like a mad thing.

Comment by Gavin on 00000000000000. Rating none

Does anyone know of anyone with the glop power in stock, no-one seems to have it? Rippo sent on to the local shop, but it turned out electric..

Comment by Lloyd on 00000000000000. Rating 5

Hi,I didn't have the photo instruction manual with my kit I just wondered if any1 had any copies they could E-Mail to me? Many Thanks Lloyd

Comment by richard miles on 00000000000000. Rating 4

I have just completed and flown my alienator (electric) fitted with the Typhoon motor and 8x4 prop as recommended. I have now fitted a 9x5 prop Graupner slim prop (due to the adaptor size - but found the motor getting warm - it feels underpowered with the smaller prop - any suggestions - I am using a variety of 7 /8 cell packs but only getting 9minutes at best on a 2250Nimh 7 cell at full chat. Thanks in anticipation

Comment by Patrick McGrath on 00000000000000. Rating 5

I scored two Alienator kits at a huge discount and am building the first one as a PSS slope soarer. I have cut off the centre fin and the cutesey foam canopy. I have replaced the outer fins with triangular Bluefoam fins, and the canopy with a vacuum formed plastic one painted black inside. The nose is a shaped hunk of EPP foam, glued to the EPS fuselage with RPA glue, and the elevators notched shape has been filled in with EPS sheet to give more elevator authority. The result is a fairly good representation of the Russian S37 "Berkut" FSW experimental fighter. If it is permitted I will post you a pic. Cheers. Oldpilot.

Comment by steve on 00000000000000. Rating none

hi i have already destroyed my alienater, but it was great fun, i purchased mine from a hobby store as an electric version i put the recomended lightspeed 600 moter in and it flew ok with a sanyo 2000 7 cell pack but there wasnt an abundance of spare power with this basic set up so i addapted it to ic with an os25 moter up front which inproved the performance a lot. I had great fun with it until i hit some power cables and destroyed it,i think it still wanted to be electric.

Comment by Ian on 00000000000000. Rating none

I'm thinking of buying this model.......is the Hurricane 650 the same as the Typhoon motor used in the Review? I thought that I might use a Jeti 15/4 and 8 cells........would that be good for big loops etc. Nice review chaps, well done.

Comment by Gary on 00000000000000. Rating none

I have just purchased the Alienator at Wings and Wheels 2003. On openeing the kit I have found that I do not have the Pictorial elements. Although I have the instructions it is difficult to determine were the smaller parts should go? Can someone provide me with a PDF file format or similiar that I can print off. I can then continue building and experience the fun you have all had. Many thanks Gary.

Comment by john on 00000000000000. Rating none

I also bought the best buy of the show at wings and wheels but no photo sheet.Can anybody tell me why the tray sides have different cut outs at the back end and which is left and which is right or is that not important ? Cheers

Comment by John on 00000000000000. Rating none

I also bought a kit at wings and wheels but no photo sheet. Can anybody tell me why the tray sides have different cut outs at the back end and which is left and which is right or is that not important ? Cheers

Comment by bob on 00000000000000. Rating 5

Yep, I also bought the photo sheet less version, electric, great value but the instructions refer to the missing sheet. The excellent review helps a lot. Thank you. Any chance of "Bumpy Green" reproducing the said sheet? Regards to all.

Comment by Ian on 00000000000000. Rating 5

I have nearly finished my E version.......I filled in the elevator, as I have read that there is not enough for a decent flare out. We shall see! I will be fitting a Jeti 15/4 on 8 cells, but because the wires are short(and have to be kept short) I will make both the top canopies as "one" so I can change batteries easier. Let us all know how you get on powering/flying yours. Ian

Comment by Malcolm on 00000000000000. Rating none

I bought my alienator at Eastnor Castle and geuss what no photo sheet in any of kits.

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

THIS PLANE FLIES LIKE A KITCHEN TOWEL

Comment by Scotsmac on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi All, Ive destroyed my model but not without having loads of fun with it first. I bought the IC version anf fitted it with a Magnum .15 which I thought was pretty cool until a couple of rapiers left it standing in their laughter. The following w'end however, just desserts were dished when said model had maiden flight with the ASP .28 shoehorned into her. Admiring comments all round were heard for several weeks until one cocky pilot made ever such a minor error (honest) to take take said model home in a bin bag. Roll on next Xmas

Comment by Ian Loome on 00000000000000. Rating 4

I bought my Alienator at Wings & Wheels 03, GP version (with photo sheet) but I felt that trapping the servo wires under the main spar was a silly design, did anyone feel the same way, and what did u do different to avoid it?

Comment by t0mmY on 00000000000000. Rating 5

hi all, i'm from germany... and i found the alienator somewhere in the internet. i must buy it in austria because can't find it in germany... i hope it will be delivered the next day. I will use an SPEED 600 8.4V with an 8-cell accu. the remote control an the engine is from GRAUPNER, ah german company... has someone ever heard this name? (just interesting) I apologize for my (i hope not so bad) english ;)

Comment by Gavin Chester on 00000000000000. Rating 3

As I'm now 80% finished with the build on my GP version here are the problems I've seen. None of them are big problems but all niggles. It's almost (as my wife put it) no-one had actually used the instructions to build the final production kit. The supplied snakes are lousy, the instructions say put the black one for the throttle linkage, there is no black one in the kit I got, only 3 white. The throttle snake also needs you to carve a hole in the foam so the front hatch will fit flush. The supplied snake and clevis when installed on the elevator mean I cannot get any down, as the clevis won't go into the snake pipe and the distance invilved means you get no down elevator, replaced with piano wire and a z bend.. Firewall has 2 holes in for fuel, but you need 3 fuel tubes as the tank has 3 holes, I wouldn't mind if it said anything about it in the instructions but it doesn't. I don't know if the inital tank only had holes for the clunk and pressure inlet, but mine has 3 predrilled holes. Not a big problem but an annoyance. Elevator horn when fitted protrudes up above the elevator, and catches on the rudder, easily cured carving a bit of the rudder but a niggle.

Comment by Paul Fram on 20040319122700. Rating 4

Having scored a cheap kit (GP version) and having seen a couple of reviews, I decided to have a try at doing this kit as electric: Powerplant is a fanfare 40t wet mag buggy motor running off 10 rc-2000 cells with a 9 x 5 folder on a 45mm yoke (giving a true size of appx 9 7/8 x 5) which draws appx 30amps static on initial full throttle. Kit was easy enough to build, although as it wasn't the EP version, certain bulkheads etc had to be nmodified. Also there was no sheet of illustrations- seems to be a common theme :-) Apart from a small problem with setting too little downthrust (which is going to be cured) that doesn't actually cause too many problems, this one flew perfect straight off the board! Good flight is easily sustainable on 1/2 throttle after launch (which is no drama with this power level) and the motor is a little doozey - on 1/2 throttle on flypast you can hear the 35amp Jeti speed controller doing its stuff and talking to you :-) Well impressed - the kit is good (although not dramatically tough - hangar rash does occur quickly) but the powerplant is what makes it - a brushless would be better - but a shed load dearer too.

Comment by Rich Humphrey on 20040418110654. Rating 5

I've just received my alienator with the instruction booklet (including pictures). If people are still in need of a copy, let me know and I'll do a scan.

Comment by B on 20041004202750. Rating 1

Hi I now have 3 and and love em all the first I found an vacation in Florida then bought one as soon as I got home. GP with a OS LA 15 and hitec servos I did a red white and blue ultra cote to give better siloet breaker, and replaced the elevator with 1/4 alerion stock. WOW square loops hammerhead stall just great tall grass landings. Even on dead stick this bird would put on some heat and get a few manuvers. Watch that CG add dead weight if you have to or just get a bigger flight pack right behind the fuel tank. #2 &3 are in process to a fiberglass brushless, and a twin ducted fan.

Comment by Eddie Forbes on 20041010183953. Rating 4

I had a very enjoyable first flight with my alienator. However, after a very gentle landing the nose former detached from the plastic cowl. I think this is a weakness in the design of the plane. The solution is to get another round former on the other side of the plastic and screw it to the original nose former so the plastic is sandwitched between them. Also I will try to support the motor within the cowl. I found there was not an abundance of power with 7 cells, lightspeed 600 motor and a 7x6 fixed prop, so i'll go and buy an 8 cell pack.

Comment by Mark on 20041024192747. Rating 3

Hi Having some technical problems with my alieantor. Im sure some of you will know the problem straight away!! It evolves around the elctronics i guess! The 600 motor cuts out at times, and the servos can have a mind of their own. On the last flight i had it hardly even took off before cutting out. I have a 4 channel GWS receiver, lightspeed 600, 8.4v 7 cell 3000mh and a 40 amp esc....does anyone have any suggestions!! Many thanks in advance. Mark

Comment by Terry sullivan on 20041117231020. Rating 4

Hi all, I bought a used Alienator at a club auction for £10, complete with motor, 40 amp esc, elevator servo. I have flown it once, and my instructor has also flown it. Unfortunately the previous owner had not used the rudder and has installed a 400 motor, and although it flew okay, it is underpowered. I plan to use it as is until I am better at flying electric, I started flying this spring and most of my flying has been on the slopes. Then I will fit a 6oo rocket, 2.5/1 gearbox, Graupner Cam 11x6 prop, which I will run on an eight cell pack. To do this, I need to obtain a new nose, as the existing one is very solidly attached! I would also like to make a slope version. One criticism of the model is that it is very prone to hangar rash, all the angles and sticky-outy bits are a magnet for knocks. For all that, it flies nicely considering the power unit fitted, and it looks unusual enough to attract attention. Any of you who have a spare nose or two, please get in touch!

Comment by Roy Davies on 20060310185635. Rating 5

I bought a bargain £10 kit at the nat's a couple of years ago it was the electric version. I installed a Veco 21 little bit of a problem getting 3 standard servos in the fus. It flew on as if on rails - still does. I glued a strip of mylar to the wing underside to stiffen it against the high wing loading it would expect to get from my style of 'how do I make it break up in the air' style of flying. carefull when you land - dead straight wings level or it will touch a tip and enter its span reducing routine, no worry collect your foam jigsaw reassemble with epoxy and enjoy again. Great fun.

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