Introduction...

With two fun-fly models already completed the time came for the third and final comparison in this series. The Modeltech Magic Fun-fly from YT International is one model I had looked forward to trying and when we decided to do a 3 way head to head on the 3 most popular high wing fun fly models available. The magic has one appeal to me over the others in this series of articles ~ it isn't see though. I do like the transparent look but this model just caught my eye on more than one occaision, especially after flying Tony's Limbo Dancer.


Specifications:
Wingspan: 51 in. (1295mm.)
Wing chord: 14 in. (355mm.)
Wing Area: 725 sq. in. (.46 sq. m.)
Weight: 3 - 3.5lb (1.3 - 1.6kg.)
Engine: .36 - .46 2-stroke / .52 4-stroke
Radio: 4-5 channel with 5 servos.

Available From


www.ytinternational.co.uk

Modeltech Magic - Price £84.95

What's in the box...

The kit is packages in a sturdy box with the specifications printed and some nice pictures including Mark Leavesley (top U.K. Show Pilot, 3 times European Jet Champion and 2nd in the World Jet Masters) who endorsed the design.

The contents of the box

Each of the main airframe components are bagged in polythene for protection. All small components are in sealed bags

The contents laid out.

A check of all parts is advised at this point to ensure there is nothing missing.

Tail & Elevator
Fin & Rudder
Fuselage

Tailplane and fin are pre-covered, built up components with rudder and elevator pre hinged. Fuselage is pre-covered and is sheet construction. Covering is very well applied with no peeling or gaps.

Wing and Ailerons

The wing is supplied as one piece and is of light weight built up construction. With a wide chord, deep section and large ailerons this wing offers great lift, stability and manoeuvrability.

The various hardware packs.

All the accessories are grouped in individual bags. Control horns, clevices, engine mount, fuel tank and wheels. All appropriate screws, nuts and bolts are included.

What else do you need...

The following materials are needed to complete the model :-


Other items you need to complete the model
:

4/5 channel radio gear (5 servo's, receiver, battery and a transmitter)
0.36 - 0.46 2 stroke engine.
Cyano
Fuel Tube
Propeller
A Selection if tools

Construction...

Before starting construction the supplied instructions are read from start to finish. This puts the models construction into a chronological order that can be followed easily. Reading through first also allows any possible problems to be addressed before building.


The Instruction booklet is clear and detailed.

Wing preparation...

The first job is to glue the hairy hinges. These are pre fitted in the wing and ailerons but not glued in place. Ailerons are aligned correctly as per instructions and I used thin cyano run into the hinges to secure them in place. Thin is the best type for this job as even runny medium cyano does not penetrate the hinge fully.

Align control surfaces as instructed. Use Cyano to secure the hinges. Testing control surface movement.

Tape is used along the top edge of the control surface to maintain a smooth air flow over the hinge area without allowing any between the trailing edge and the control surface..

Servo dry fitted in wing. Aileron control rods. Aileron control horn.

Fitting the wing servos is the next job on the list and take a little slight of hand to achieve. Long nosed pliers were used to assist the threading of the servo cable through the wing structure. a length of hooked piano wire would also be a good help getting the wires through the small holes in the ribs.

Servos installed. Aileron connected. Testing aileron servo.

To keep the servo leads out of the wing a small piece of tape is secured across them. With the servos secures the control rods are connected loosely to determine the correct position for the aileron control horns. These are screwed into place and the rods can be adjusted to fit. I always centre my servos as I go along and test them before moving onto the next part.

Wing band plate.

The last part of the wing to be completed is the band plate at the back of the wing. This protects the trailing edge from being crushed by the bands. This is simply glued into place once the covering is removed from the top of the wing.

Fuselage Fittings...

The Fuselage is very narrow and extremely light considering it is all sheet construction. Pre-covered with high quality film, there are no wrinkles or peeled areas on the covering.

Sturdy wire frame. Ultra light wheels. Undercarriage fitted.

First addition to the fuselage structure is the undercarriage. A sturdy wire assemblage that is actually very tall compared to most undercarriages on this type of model. Secured to the bottom fuselage plate with 4 saddle clamps. Alignment is the main consideration here and getting the position right. The wheels are ultra light plastic with foam tires, held on by supplied brass collets. The undercarriage is very tall and looks quite odd until the tail skid is fitted.

Tall wire tail skid. Rear wingband dowel Front wingband dowel

The tail skid is held onto the fuselage with 2 saddle clamps which are screwed into a reinforced block inside the fuselage. Once this is on the very tall undercarriage doesn't look so out of place. Next on the list are the wing dowels. These are a push fit through the fuselage and actually required no glue to hold them in place.

Servo tray being built. Servo tray fitted in fus'. Control rods cut to length.

Building the servo tray is simplicity itself with only 2 strips needed to be glued onto the underside of the tray to act as a mounting point in the fuselage. Once secured the control rod snakes have to be cut to length. This is a little tricky as a sharp knife is hard to control as the plastic of quite hard. Cutters work well but have the disadvantage of crushing the snake tube. This can be easily overcome with a small screwdriver or bradal.

Engine mount lined up. Mount fixed in place. Engine dry fitted.

The engine mount is a two piece type and I was concerned I would have trouble getting it all lined up. Once I had bought the engine however and fitted it to the mount, marking out the position was very easy as the mount is held in exactly the right position by the engine. Captive spike nuts are drawn into the back of the firewall to provide a firm fixing to the fuselage. Allen bolts through the mounting hold it all in place at the front.
The engine is fitted at a downward angle of 45 from vertical. This allows the silencer to run under the front of the fuselage between the undercarriage legs. The advantage of this angle of mounting is the exhaust residue can be piped away from the fuselage and not cover the whole airframe with unburned oil.

Tailplane and Fin...

The tailplane is offered up square on the fuselage and pinned so the sides of the fus can be marked on the underside of the tail surface. This is also a good time to lien up the control horns on the elevator and rudder. The area of covering just inside the marks is removed to allow a good wood to wood gluing surface. Alignment with the fuselage is very important and all care was taken to follow the instructions. I fitted the wing to the model and measured the distance from wing trailing edge to tail trailing edge to ensure. Once in place the pins were secured and thin cyano was run into the gap under the tailplane. Anything but very thin cyano will not penetrate very far on this kind of joint. Epoxy is recommended and this has the advantage of allowing a little time for aligning.

Film removed Edges sealed Tail assembled

The tail fin was placed into the fuselage slot and the fuselage sides marked on the fitting tab. The film gets cut back from here to allow the glue to penetrate the wood. Using a square on either side of the fin it was secured in place, again using very thin cyano.

Control Linkages...

The kit comes with a rather nice set of steel wire control rods which work as a closed loop system. This has one major advantage in that there is no slack to worry about as with a cable close loop installation. The wires are held taught inside the 4 pre installed snake runs inside the fuselage and create a very positive response to control inputs.

Elevator and Rudder servos. Tail surface control horns.

The cable holders at the servo ends clip onto the wires and stop them coming out of the servos. The items supplied were too big for the wire and would fall off. These were replaced with better fitting items. Primary adjustment was carried out via the control horn clevices at the tail end and final trim can be set up on the radio. Again servos were set to neutral using the radio before connecting the control rods and tested for smooth and equal movement.

The Engine...

Choosing an engine is no brief task these days. With so many manufacturers now producing reputable engines the search can be overwhelming. I had seen a couple of .36 size engines that I short listed, then someone at a recent show recommended the LEO 37-SF (737 EP ABC)


With a displacement of .37 cu. in. or 6.06cc the LEO 37 is proclaimed as .40 power in a .32 size engine. Rated at 1.2 bhp and able to rev to a screaming 18,000 rpm yet weighing only 280g it is easily on par or better than equivalent size engines from all stables.


Very high quality casting and the gleaming finish inside the ports is something I would have been proud of in my Ford Crossflow modifying days. The brass liner is clearly visible through the exhaust port with a split port in the liner wall directing the burned gas efficiently out of the cylinder.

Oiled and wrapped. High quality finish. Tools are supplied.

A standard quiet silencer is supplied with the engine, along with 2 spanners and a screwdriver. The latter being for adjusting the bottom end needle which is situated on the inside of the throttle slide. Installation of the engine was very straight forward and as the mount had been fitted to the engine to align the mount on the firewall.

Fuel tubes being installed. Engine installed. Prop fitted & ready to run.
Conclusion...

A very pleasing model to build. Nothing too complicated although a bit of experience is required for the control linkage setup. The instructions are clear and easy to follow with plenty of diagrams and photos to aid construction. Build quality is among the best I have seen and typical of Modeltech kits.
Now we can see how the magic goes head to head with the Cougar 2000 from Weston and the Limbo Dancer from Ripmax.

Modeltech Magic Weston Cougar Ripmax Limbo Dancer
Carbon Updates...
The Magic enjoying a day on the bumps. Upgrade undercarriage from Carbon Copy.

A
great way to enhance the look of a model is the addition of some carbon fibre upgrades. These can not only make the model stand out from the norm but are also practical and in some cases much better suited for an application than the standard items.
Why Bother?..
With many flights now on the Magic Fun Fly the wire undercarriage has begun to show signs of wear and tear from the infamous bumps of Bumpy Green.
Original undercarriage showing signs of age. Soldered repair on the broken wire.

A few bends in the wire legs and eventually a break on one side led to the demise of the original Magic undercarriage. Using steel wire and solder to repair the broken leg initially led to the decision to change the undercarriage for a more durable alternative. With a wide variety to choose from including tougher wire, aluminium and fibre glass versions the ultimate upgrade has to be carbon fibre. It looks good, it's very light and extremely strong. Just right for Bumpy Green.
What's Involved?..
The exhaust, battery and fuel tank were first removed to gain access to the work area.
Impression of the undercarriage wire. Internal ply plates pre fitted.

8 self tapping screws hold the undercarriage in place with saddle clamps. Once removed the imprint of the undercarriage wire can be seen as a depression in the covering. A quick wipe with some kitchen roll removed the small amount of exhaust residue on the fuselage. One of the nice things about the Magic is the way many useful items are pre fitted from new. One of these is the ply plates that the undercarriage screws into, which are already installed straight out of the box, the forward plate being in exactly the right place for the new undercarriage. Using the original holes as a guide, new drilling points were marked on the fuselage covering with the undercarriage fitting almost flush with the firewall line.
Nylon bolts fitted with wide washers. Captive nuts inside secured with cyno

I say almost flush as you have to take into account the thrust built into the firewall. Once finished I aligned the wheel axles using the leading edge of the wing as a guide to get them straight. Captive nuts are inserted into the holes and using metal bolts and a flat aluminium bracket on the underside of the fuselage these are pulled tight into the ply plate and secured with a few drops of cyno. The metal bolts are removed and nylon bolts put in their place with some washers on the undercarriage to spread the load.
Heating the chisel for a clean cut. This creates a very flush finish.

The nylon bolts protrude into the fuselage and need to be trimmed. Cutting nylon bolts with pliers can distort them and make them very hard to re-fit or remove. Using a slim craft chisel heated on the stove I cut these off flush while in situ. This makes them exactly the right length and makes a very neat job of the cut. It also leaves a flattened top which should prevent the bolts coming undone by themselves.
Wheels & Spats...
As I have not fitted wheel spats to a model before and this presented a challenge for me.
New spats with alignment ridges on one side. The parts used to secure the whole assembly.

The spats are supplied with ridges moulded on opposing sides of each unit. These are the guide for the undercarriage legs to fit into and one of the problems I thought I might have :- where to line up the spats. This solved the next challenge was to find a way to mount the spat securely and still leave the wheel to spin freely. Using a long bolt and a nylock nut the spat is held tight against the leg. Then a rubber grommet is fitted to space the wheel to the correct place in the spat and finally a brass collet is fitted to secure the wheel with enough freedom to spin and move very slightly sideways on the axle.
Bolt, nylock nut & rubber grommet inside. Wheel has plenty of clearence all round

The wheel sits fairly central in the cut-out and has plenty of clearence to spin freely. A few quick adjustments with the collet can deal with any slack in the fitting. The wheel has to be fitted onto the axle before the nylock nut is tightened against the leg or there is not enough room to get it into place. A small spanner and a screwdriver were used to tighten it all into place and the wheel is pushed onto the axle and the collet secured with a small allen grub screw.
Inside & outside views showing the sleek look of the final fitting.
Finished & Ready...
With the undercarriage, spats and wheels all fitted all that remained was to refit all the bits removed when I started.
The exhaust is a very close fit to the nylon bolts & may require shielding.

During refitting, the last part to go back on was the exhaust. This was a worry at first as it looked like the bolt heads would touch the silencer. Once tightened fully however there is a gap which should be enough. I will however have to check the bolts after the exhaust reaches operating temp and either use slimmer washers or use some alu-clad to shield the bolt heads.
Everything refitted & waiting for a chance to fly again.
   

Carbon funfly undercarriages are just one of the large range of replacement parts Carbon Copy offer. For details of units to suit your application check out their web site or give them a call with your requirements.
   



Visit: http://www.carboncopyuk.com/
Email: contact@carboncopyuk.com

Carbon Copy
The Old Smithy
Cox Green
Kings Walden
Hitchin
Hertfordshire
England.
SG4 8NG

+44 (0)1462 769619
+44 (0)1438 223345



Article by John Kent from Bumpy Green Model Aerodrome
6th July 2002




Comments left by others...
Comment by Kevin on 00000000000000. Rating none

So which one is the best between the Cougar, Limbo Dancer and the Magic?

Comment by Kevin on 00000000000000. Rating none

What type of servos did you use? I only have the ones supplied with my Futaba SS6 tx, 3001s. Will these be fast enough?

Comment by Tony Brock on 00000000000000. Rating none

Kevin, I cant answer which is the best, they are all good models, depends which one you liek the look of, all 3 reveiws are available so have a read and see what you think. As for the servo's the 3001 will be fine.

Comment by PHIL FROM DEWSBURY on 00000000000000. Rating none

BRILLIANT SITE!!!!!!!!!! REVIEWS ON FUN FLY'S HAS BEEN VERY GOOD READING, HAVE GOT A LIMBO DANCER CAN'T WAIT TO START PRACTICING AFTER READING COMMENTS.KEEP UP THE GREAT ARTICLES.SOUND!!!!

Comment by Bob Nagle on 00000000000000. Rating 5

i've been flying for 1 year i bought,built and flew a magic had trouble getting it balanced added weight to back of plane i have a os 40 la on the plane i follow ed the instruction completely setting the throws as instructed i found out the hard way that is to severe for a newer pilot i love the plane it does as described i found this article very informative Thanks

Comment by chris brislin on 00000000000000. Rating 4

very good article

Comment by Andrew on 00000000000000. Rating 5

This is the best plane! Im 14 and the CG came out perfect and i can hover on a 40. This is the best 2nd plane.

Comment by Dan on 00000000000000. Rating none

i dont actualy own a magic but reading this reveiw and downloading the video from this site i might just take the plunge and buy it!!! cheers

Comment by Dan Moon on 00000000000000. Rating 5

Great Article !!! Do you think that an Irvine 53 MKIII would be too powerfull? and how much was the engine used in this article? Thanks Dan

Comment by Tony on 00000000000000. Rating none

I bought the magic when it first came available,I agree the undercarriage isn't up to much and bends on reasonably soft landings,after many repairs I changed for a shorter Limbo dancer undercarriage which appears to be more substantial.Mine is powered by a La 40 with an 11.5 x 4 apc prop,control surfaces are slightly less than recommended.I learn't to fly with this model and recently took and passed my A test with it.In my opinion it makes a good trainer and a terrific fun fly,if your not on a budget an os 32 would be an ideal engine providing more power than the la 40 whilst keeping the weight down.

Comment by Bob on 00000000000000. Rating none

I have a OS 46 FX and a Purple Pipe from Just Engines. Is this too heavy for the magic or the cougar? Can the servos be mounted in the tail?

Comment by John on 00000000000000. Rating none

Hi Bob The OS 46 FX is quite a heavy engine compared to the Leo 37 I used in the review and will provide more than an excess of power as the 37 will go vertical on half throttle with an 11 x 4 prop. The extra weight at the nose could make it a big sluggish on handling. You could mount the servos at the tail end with a bit of work - I think getting the wiring installed may be the toughest part.

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

buy a cougar 2000, they look good and fly the best!!!!!!!!!!!

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

help! i can't decide which one to get! i like the look of the cougar best but at £100 its expensive, limbo dancer is only £70 but i'm not to keen, magic is about £90 i think? not too bad, at my club there is already a limbo dancer and a cougar, should i complete the circle with a magic??

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

hi i read your comments about the cougar the magic and the limbo,and he said he could buy a limbo for £70 please let me know where,my e-mail is cat.luskvirgin.net

Comment by brett on 00000000000000. Rating 5

THESE ARTICLES WERE EXTREMELY INFORMATIVE!!!!! I am relatively new at flying and I was wondering if you think I could handle the Magic. I'm really excited!!! Anyone can email me at www.outlaws24pimp@yahoo.com

Comment by djay on 00000000000000. Rating none

sorry, am I missing something here? where is the flying rerview? both the other models hada good flying write up, but cannt see one for this model.

Comment by Dave G on 00000000000000. Rating none

put an irvine 40 upfront & CG is spot on with standard 4.8 bat pack 46 & 53 weigh same as 40 but cost more & you dont need anymore power as 40 will prop hang half throttle OS LA requires lead as does irvine 39

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

BOLOCKS.......BUY A COUGAR 2000.

Comment by Cody Wilson on 00000000000000. Rating none

great pictures and information on the magic! Very helpful as I just purchased a magic for myself- but someone took the instructions out of the box! If anyone has some could you e-mail them to me? Great! codiddley@msn.com Thanks.

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

i think someone works for western u.k & only knows one swear word

Comment by sam on 00000000000000. Rating none

i think the person above is right ;-) hehehe, shame that the cougar is A LOT MORE HEAVIER than the limbo or magic, really lets the performance down, shame really

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

yep!

Comment by on 00000000000000. Rating none

magic is wicked ,but sort the accessories out, really poor clevies bin em . And as for the u/c land on foam or custurd use a red slec tank (good plane none the less)

Comment by plane boy on 20040128211457. Rating 4

hi i'm 14 and got a magic for x-mas, it is MDS 38 powered with a APC 11x4 prop and weighs 4 1/4 lb. The plane flies great. I can prop hang for about 10 secs, but the plane doesn't have enough power to pull out convincingly. Will a throttle pipe give me more power?

Comment by Keith on 20040226162914. Rating 3

Yeah I have one and its fine, nothing special , though i was hopeing to read how it compared to the other planes in your test. Not a bady web site at all.!

Comment by Dave on 20040502013118. Rating 4

Nice Plane Super flyer! BUT!!!! I know this kind of plane is built light and somwhat delicate so that it can perform mad 3D manovers etc... but I would like to know why they use balsa that picks up marks just by bloody looking at it! you can get hard but light balsa!!!! This plane and the hype alike look and fly awsome but get the bloody production sorted!!!!!

Comment by Jason on 20040502013622. Rating 4

This plane is well acceptable! quality etc.. it flys like a dream well worth buying. The Magic Extra However is CRAP!!! serious stay well away! they break in half at the slightest blip!! I mean even on a slighty harder than normal landing! the undercart is alu and does not absorb any impact there are no hardwood longerons and the fuse is so thin under the cockpit area that it snaps like a carrot! serious design fault!!! Beware!!!!! you were warned!

Comment by PaiMai on 20040502134942. Rating 1

Yes the magic extra is crap. Unfortunately the owner of YT only wants cash and WAN TONS. He also loves to steal everyone elses designs.

Comment by Agoeng T Prasetyo on 20050317092427. Rating 3

This week already test flight with ASP 46II A.Engine its crazy ya bro..nice flying. good planes good price..

Comment by Benni on 20050604201929. Rating 1

Hi, das ist ein wirklich geiles Modell! Ich habe ein 10er Os max drauf, das geht ab wie die Hölle Hölle Hölle!

Comment by Gavyn on 20050713211430. Rating 5

Just bought a magic at cosford, the best fun fly i av ever had.A couple of years ago i had a cougar i thought is was absolute rubbish.If u r lookin for a decent fun fly go for a magic or limbo.

Comment by liam dougherty on 20050906113050. Rating 5

Just wondering how i can obtain a set of those carbon landing gear and pants and will they suit an modeltech extra 300?

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