Within these pages we hope to bring you many of those little tips and tricks We would also like to hear from you lot as well so if you have a nifty idea send it over to us.

You can e-mail me with your hints, tips, suggestions and bright ideas to brightideas@bumpygreen.co.uk and any drawings or photographs and we’ll do our best to publish them on the site . This site is a totally free service unless you are an advertiser (sorry), set up to fill in the gaps that the magazines leave open. But most of all it is there for YOU to enjoy and to learn from where possible. So don’t be shy lets have some input and make it a better site for everybody.

This is a simple solution to an age old problem in model flying, after a good days flying what do you use to clean your pride and joy, the old rag in the back of the car, some paper wipes and your own brew cleaning fluid. I believe I have found the perfect answer a packet of cleaning wipes designed to clean up toxic waste and be kind to your skin and model, yes I am talking about baby wipes I relieved my wife of the remains of a packet she had and tried them out at the field. The results are perfect they remove all oil residue and whatever else is stuck to your model, I have also tried industrial hand wipes but whatever they are made of doesn't absorb the oil so next time you have to go shopping with your wife chuck a pack in your trolley and give them a try, believe me you won't be disappointed. I get mine from our local ALDI store for just over a pound and you can use them in the workshop as well. Jim McGlynn - October 2004

Building a one-off or perhaps from a freebie magazine plan?
Here is how to create a canopy for only 20 pence, using a 2 litre pop bottle.

First off you need to create a buck from a firm material capable of taking heat .I use a dense foam but balsa, plaster of paris or even clay will do. Do not try to put in too much detail, as the pop bottle will stretch like a balloon over the buck. Here’s one I have produced for the RCM&E Hawk/Tucano.

The buck then need’s to be placed into a pop bottle, cutting one end off first. I use the 2 litre bottled sparkling water available from all good and bad supermarkets for the princely sum of, yes you’ve guessed, 20 pence. The labels will usually peel off cleanly but any glue can be removed by soaking in a washing up bowl of hot water for between 15 minutes and and hour. Remove the cap and allow the water to fill the bottle so it does not float - leaving the glue/paper out of water. The buck fitted inside the bottle. Now for the magic bit. Heat slowly around the bottle using a heat gun or cooker and watch it slowly take on the form of the buck. Bottle shaped to the buck ready to be removed and trimmed. Take care not to heat it up too much as it will fog the plastic. The finished product Cut from the buck and you have a newly formed canopy for 20 pence and a few minutes of work.

This method can also be used to produce cowlings. Buck in place for a custom cowl. A different design finished item. Place the buck into the bottle so the neck lies where the prop hub will fit. Own design cowl? No longer a problem. Here is a cowl I produced for a one off, own design indoor Pitts Special.

GO ON - HAVE A GO

Article by Tim Wheater for Bumpy Green Model Aerodrome
January 2004

Hello Guy's

I thought I would share with you an idea I use for my foam models. Being a wheelchair user I seem to knock my models around more than I should. Even just putting them in the car is a major task!. As a result many fins, tails, wingtips, control surfaces etc, seem to get bent or broken off. Here is how I stop this.

You will need..

1, A can of BEER
2, A junior hacksaw blade.
3, Glue.

I slice the damaged area lengthways with the junior hacksaw blade or a sharp knife. Then (here's the good bit) DRINK THE BEER!! using a pair of strong scissors cut the can open and flatten it out. Then simply cut a square off and insert it into the slot you've cut into the control surface. Using cynao (depending on the foam) glue the "can" in place. The metal will stop the control surface from splitting, its light, strong, and you get to drink the contents too!!

I have used this to very good effect with my twinjet... Picture attached!!

Hope this is of use to you all.

Brian Collins.

I have read your speed 400 thrust test and really enjoyed it. Here is an alternative way to build a simple thrust guage.

If you go to any fishing tackle shop you can buy spring balances in various sizes and quite cheaply. With models that have undercarts stand the model on a smooth surface, put a loop of cord around the tailplane and hook this on to the balance. Tie the other end of the balance to something heavy and open the throttle, then note the reading. Again this is not very scientific but does allow you to compare the static thrust of various props. Just don't stand in front of the plane when you do it as this test also checks that your tailplane is securely attached to the fuselage ! Bumpy green is a great site, and you don't have to wait ages for the pages to download. Brian Simpson.

Many engines both 2-stroke and 4-stroke will not have been used for some time due to the winter and foot and mouth disease closing flying fields. Oil will have dried up in the engines and there will be no initial lubrication. If you run the engine there is a risk of the engine seizing through lack of oil. This may not be immediate, it is likely to happen during flight. It is very important to lubricate the bottom end through the carburettor with a 2-stroke or through the breather nipple if a 4-stroke before running. We suggest 2-stroke motor oil about 3-5 ml. BE WARNED IT HAS HAPPENED ALREADY. It is good practice to fit a new glowplug at the beginning of the season. During storage the element can deteriorate and the engine can be difficult to tune.

Check out the radio gear, cycle batteries, check for black wire corrosion and check out the model completely. There are more crashes after a winter lay off than any other time.

Simple maintenance can save your model.

HAPPY FLYING, all the best to BUMPYGREEN
Neil Tidey, LASERENGINES.COM